Bourbon BBQ: Tasty Takes on American Classics

As I was putting the finishing touches on my Bourbon BBQ (529 Goffle Road) dinner order, the gentleman waiting on me from behind a spotless counter inquired whether or not I had ever tried their french fries. Well, no, I certainly had not. You see, french fries are a rarity, a treat if you may, in a world of diverse comestibles; and it is only once or twice a year when I indulge in such a kickshaw.

Needless to say, he had me considering an order. The gentleman also added that the fries were hand-cut, cooked and seasoned on the premises. I was sold. If you only have something once in a blue moon, you should make it the cream of the crop, no?—the answer is 'yes.' The man might as well have told me they were "the best batch of fries ever," as that is exactly what I discovered later, after hemming and hawing about whether or not to add them to the order, while enjoying their crisp, seasoned perfection.

Besides the french fries, some other selections my dining crew was keen on were the 1/3-pound Black Angus Burger topped with bacon and cheese and the Texas Hold 'Em, an all beef "Texas Style" foot-long hot dog. There also was the Double Whammy, which consisted of a bun clamping down on a barbecue-smothered center (half-smoked brisket, half-smoked pork), topped with a generous portion of home-made coleslaw. The Buffalo Wrap was enjoyed, chock full of grilled chicken breast drizzled in buffalo wing sauce, and combined into an oversized wrap with field greens, ranch dressing and shredded cheddar cheese.

Aside from stealing bites of the aforementioned from everyone else's plates, I enjoyed a surprisingly decent Cajun Salmon Salad (and I am a salad snob, a connoisseur even). I say "surprisingly" only because, let's face it, with a name like Bourbon BBQ, the joint is not especially in the business of making salads. Barbecues are about smoked meats and corn on the cob, mashed potatoes and beer-battered onion rings—not diced tomatoes, arugula, baby spinach and julienne carrots.

That having been said, where I was expecting an olio of semi-transparent iceberg lettuce, pale tomatoes and dry broccoli, I found in its place a strongly seasoned square of salmon atop a serving of fresh field greens, diced tomatoes, cucumber and sliced onion. Field greens, on a carnivore's menu? Not too shabby.

After the salad, I grabbed a handful of tortilla chips from the cupboard in order to scoop up portions from a side of Black Angus Chili. With a definite spice infused into its beans, meat and vegetable base, the chili proved to be of a noteworthy flavor, and before you could say "uncle," it was gone.

At fair prices and with a distinct flavor and zest, the fare at Bourbon BBQ is worth the trip on a cold winter night. The service is friendly and fast, and if you are dining in, the atmosphere is that of a 1950s barbecue hangout, with signs for RC Cola bringing back memories of moonpies, and red and white checkered table cloths reminding you of the spare ribs used to scrape up spilled barbecue sauce.

And though time goes quickly, right here in Wyckoff there's a little piece of it paused—in the style and in the feel, and most definitely in the food.